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photoshop - jewelry
- Thread starter johnsilvia
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johnsilvia
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With mystudio ms20, google it
Hey,
Here is one way to do that. Select your jewelry layer -> Select (top of photoshop) -> Color range -> Click one of the darkest diamonds and it selects that color -> Adjust fuzziness so all those dark areas are visible in the preview -> Click ok and it selects all those areas -> Click Brightness/Contrast on right -> Adjust brightness.
Then do this again but select a bit lighter diamond to adjust most of them.
Now choose Eraser tool (E) -> choose brightness/contrast layer -> and brush over the inside area where you have that darker line/shape to make it visible.
(If you want even more brightness/glow -> hold ctrl + click brightness/control layer thumbnail -> it selects everything in that layer -> Choose Exposure on right -> Adjust exposure up)
IF you can't see brightness/contrast, exposure etc. Window -> Adjustments
Hope this helps, here is what i did with this technique
With Exposure:
Here is one way to do that. Select your jewelry layer -> Select (top of photoshop) -> Color range -> Click one of the darkest diamonds and it selects that color -> Adjust fuzziness so all those dark areas are visible in the preview -> Click ok and it selects all those areas -> Click Brightness/Contrast on right -> Adjust brightness.
Then do this again but select a bit lighter diamond to adjust most of them.
Now choose Eraser tool (E) -> choose brightness/contrast layer -> and brush over the inside area where you have that darker line/shape to make it visible.
(If you want even more brightness/glow -> hold ctrl + click brightness/control layer thumbnail -> it selects everything in that layer -> Choose Exposure on right -> Adjust exposure up)
IF you can't see brightness/contrast, exposure etc. Window -> Adjustments
Hope this helps, here is what i did with this technique
With Exposure:
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Tom Mann
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In your original post, as well as several other posts in this thread (eg, #6, #9, etc.), you have asked repeatedly how someone lightened up the diamonds. This implies that someone else, not you, took and/or processed the image. Yet, when MikeMc in post #14 asked if these images were yours, you said that they were.
How can these be your photos if you don't know how the effect was achieved?
We regularly try to help people figure out how an effect they saw in someone else's photo was achieved, but they will give credit to the source of the photo with a URL or with the name of the artist. This is how I would want a discussion of my images or processing techniques handled. However, if someone seems to be taking credit for the work of someone else or being deceptive in some other way, I never help them.
So, please explain exactly what is going on here.
Tom M
How can these be your photos if you don't know how the effect was achieved?
We regularly try to help people figure out how an effect they saw in someone else's photo was achieved, but they will give credit to the source of the photo with a URL or with the name of the artist. This is how I would want a discussion of my images or processing techniques handled. However, if someone seems to be taking credit for the work of someone else or being deceptive in some other way, I never help them.
So, please explain exactly what is going on here.
Tom M
johnsilvia
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Lets slow down here.
The vendor who I buy the merchandise from provided me with this picture. He owns it.
He doesn't have pictures for every piece of jewlery that he sells (to many product and he does wholesale)
I want to learn how to light up the diamonds so I can use this tequniqes on the rest of the product that my vendor doesn't have pictures
The vendor who I buy the merchandise from provided me with this picture. He owns it.
He doesn't have pictures for every piece of jewlery that he sells (to many product and he does wholesale)
I want to learn how to light up the diamonds so I can use this tequniqes on the rest of the product that my vendor doesn't have pictures
Tom Mann
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Thank you for the clarification. If one is licensed / authorized to use an image, or the photo is available to the public (eg, in the form of advertising), we will be happy to speculate on how it was made, and well within our rights to do so, although technically, we probably should have used one of our own images as an example for the manipulation. You would still have received the information and guidance that you requested.
However, you should have immediately stated the truth when MikeMc asked you about ownership of that image. You should also have stated the truth when I asked you how you lit the photo and you replied that you used a light cube. Instead, you strongly implied that you took it yourself, even though there was absolutely no need for such deception.
Doing so makes people wonder about your former posts and be wary of future statements you make. Every child knows this.
T
Tom Mann
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PS - Obviously, it would have been even better if instead of waiting for Mike and I to ask you about who took this/these images, you simply provided this information in your first post in this thread.
PPS - In the past, you have started numerous threads pertaining to photography of children and provided images which you led us to believe you took. Were these other situations where you were authorized to use the photos but didn't take them yourself?
PPS - In the past, you have started numerous threads pertaining to photography of children and provided images which you led us to believe you took. Were these other situations where you were authorized to use the photos but didn't take them yourself?
johnsilvia
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my wife is doing photography and we both looking into selling jewelry online.
next post i will provide full details of the owner ship of every photo i upload.
thanks for the replies guys!
next post i will provide full details of the owner ship of every photo i upload.
thanks for the replies guys!
Tom Mann
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Thank you for your response. You don't have to go to the opposite extreme with respect to appropriate citation / attribution of images -- just don't lie or suggest that you did something that you really didn't do.
With respect to your original question, as suggested above, by far, the best way to get rid of this problem is not in post processing, but with good basic photographic technique.
Your use of a light cube is a nice way to provide a general level of diffuse ambient illumination in product photography, but is the opposite of what one needs to bring out sparkle or "fire" in diamonds. Go to almost any high end jewelry store and notice the lighting they use to show their merchandise. In most cases, you will see that they have a large number of very small, very intense lights in the ceiling. These lights will be reflected towards your eye by the facets of the diamond and will give a diamond a beautiful sparkling appearance. For photography, having only this type of lighting will make the contrast level much too high, so a combination of a multitude of point sources PLUS a moderate level of highly diffuse ambient light (ie, from your light cube) is the best way to go.
With respect to the dark stones in the example you provided, the best way to fix the problem is to understand how light bounces around inside a diamond, and the concept of "retro-reflection". Light hitting a 90 degree corner from almost any angle will, just like corner shots in billiards, will always come back directly towards the source (eg, http://www4.uwsp.edu/physastr/kmenning/images/retroreflector.diagram.gif ). This is what happens with the interior reflections in a diamond when viewed from directly above the "table" (ie, upper flat face) of the stone. The apex or "culet" angle is usually a bit larger than 90 degrees, so you don't get perfect retro-reflection, but the main aspects of retro reflection still apply.
If you are photographing a diamond from directly perpendicular to its "table" (ie, the situation in your example photo), and the area around the camera is dark (ie, no yellow rays in the diagram I cited above, only red and green off axis illumination), the diamond will look dark. The "fix" is to use a ring light (or even a beauty dish) to supplement the general ambient illumination plus any off-axis point sources that you may have. Balance the exposures from the three sources, and you'll have a great looking stone (or stones).
I'm not familiar with the light cube that you mentioned, but most light cubes have one missing wall so that you can photograph through that side of the cube. If your light cube is configured like this and the main light source is far (in degrees) from the optical axis of the camera, it would fully explain the problem you encountered.
HTH,
T
With respect to your original question, as suggested above, by far, the best way to get rid of this problem is not in post processing, but with good basic photographic technique.
Your use of a light cube is a nice way to provide a general level of diffuse ambient illumination in product photography, but is the opposite of what one needs to bring out sparkle or "fire" in diamonds. Go to almost any high end jewelry store and notice the lighting they use to show their merchandise. In most cases, you will see that they have a large number of very small, very intense lights in the ceiling. These lights will be reflected towards your eye by the facets of the diamond and will give a diamond a beautiful sparkling appearance. For photography, having only this type of lighting will make the contrast level much too high, so a combination of a multitude of point sources PLUS a moderate level of highly diffuse ambient light (ie, from your light cube) is the best way to go.
With respect to the dark stones in the example you provided, the best way to fix the problem is to understand how light bounces around inside a diamond, and the concept of "retro-reflection". Light hitting a 90 degree corner from almost any angle will, just like corner shots in billiards, will always come back directly towards the source (eg, http://www4.uwsp.edu/physastr/kmenning/images/retroreflector.diagram.gif ). This is what happens with the interior reflections in a diamond when viewed from directly above the "table" (ie, upper flat face) of the stone. The apex or "culet" angle is usually a bit larger than 90 degrees, so you don't get perfect retro-reflection, but the main aspects of retro reflection still apply.
If you are photographing a diamond from directly perpendicular to its "table" (ie, the situation in your example photo), and the area around the camera is dark (ie, no yellow rays in the diagram I cited above, only red and green off axis illumination), the diamond will look dark. The "fix" is to use a ring light (or even a beauty dish) to supplement the general ambient illumination plus any off-axis point sources that you may have. Balance the exposures from the three sources, and you'll have a great looking stone (or stones).
I'm not familiar with the light cube that you mentioned, but most light cubes have one missing wall so that you can photograph through that side of the cube. If your light cube is configured like this and the main light source is far (in degrees) from the optical axis of the camera, it would fully explain the problem you encountered.
HTH,
T
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