Thanks guys for your efforts and taking precious time for me.Just one request, It would be great if you could add few summary about your edits, so i can learn. I did my second attempt by playing "tone curve"
Here are a few thoughts about the general process of matching the look of a another, "goal", image.
1. I hate to be blunt, but if you are attempting to do this on a system whose monitor (...and the rest of the video chain) has not been profiled (measured and compared to a standard such as sRGB) and calibrated (brought as close as possible to that standard), you are essentially wasting your time. The reasons for this include the fact that you may not know if the goal image that you selected looks horrible on most people's systems, so any time you spend working towards that goal will be wasted. The second reason is that on uncalibrated systems, you will likely not be seeing all the different colors and tones that are present in the goal image, and in the right relationship to each other. For example, if your monitor is too contrasty and your goal is a low contrast image, you will likely decrease the contrast by too large an amount. FWIW, because I do commercial work, good color calibration is absolutely essential for me, so I have a modest size monitor that costs more than most computers (because of its color accuracy), and two different hardware color calibration systems that I compare with each other.
The prices for hardware calibration systems have dropped dramatically in the last few years so almost anyone can afford one now. Here are examples of hardware color calibration systems being sold by one of the major vendors of photographic equipment;
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/buy/Color-Management-Hardware/ci/12000/N/3806301650
2. Just like the ears of recording engineers in an audio studio, the human eye also adapts very quickly to whatever it is looking at. Audio engineers working on a mix typically will occasionally stop what they are doing and play some music that they know well through the system they are using to mix down or master a recording. In Photoshop, when trying to duplicate a look, the method that I recommend is to put your goal image on top of the layer stack that you are working on and periodically toggle that layer on and off. You will essentially be doing what I have done with my last animated GIF. It then becomes vastly easier to see if your work is going in the right direction. For example, if I put your last attempt on top of the starting image, the goal image, my last attempt, and cycle through all of them, here's what you will see:
Notice how comparing your work to the goal and to the other versions of the image makes it immediately obvious that you last attempt has the following problems:
a) the evergreen trees throughout the image are too saturated;
b) the nearest evergreen trees are too bright and contrasty;
c) the shrubs at the very bottom of your last attempt are not distinguished from the evergreens immediately above them, which is not at all what one sees in the goal image;
d) your sky is much too saturated, and has a magenta cast towards the left side of the image;
e) etc. etc.
3. There is absolutely no reason to expect that you can match your starting image to the goal image using only one type of correction, e.g., just "curves". It is very, very likely that you will need additional separate adjustments of vibrance and saturation, as well as possibly hue, and you may also need increases or decreases in the local contrast, something that a global curves adjustment just can't possibly accomplish -- it can only adjust global, not local contrast.
There are many more tips and tricks that one can employ, but lets start with these.
Cheers,
Tom M