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Underwater Photo Correction


Lannabulls

Member
Messages
21
Likes
3
Photoshop cs6
windows 7 64 bit

Hi everybody,
have look please at the 2 photos that i attach, the original "original_photo_1" and the correct one "correct_photo-2":
in the correct one i apply some adjustment layers in order to correct exposure, colors, etc, i apply:
Exposure
Chanel Mixer
Photo Filter
Levels
I try also to remove backscater with healing brush tool
or with filter>noise>dusth and scratches and history brush tool


I save as jpeg 100%, maximum quality for the web, those photos are going to be published on my web site, and i always end up with that kind of alo that you can see in photo "correct_photo-2", that noisy alo (the sun light reflaction) in the blue of the sea. Can you explain to me please how to correct this photo in a proper manner in order to end up with a good final resault?
Thank a lot!
original_photo_1.jpgcorrect_photo-2.jpg
 
Wow underwater stuff is tough and I'm no expert.
I think you did a great job with the adjustments.

One thing I could recommend is if you're shooting a lot of photos in the same environment, figure out the proper settings as far as white balance and exposure and set the camera to manual mode with those settings.

That is when you find the proper setting for a particular environment you make sure you shoot all the images with the same settings.

That way you can correct 1 image and record the action which you can apply to all your images.
I'm a big believer in shooting RAW if you'r camera supports that also.
 
Thank a lot,
the original photo is a jpeg, my camera is a compact panasonic tz7, i dont have a camera able to shoot in Raw, also cause it is a camera, or videocam attached to the spearfishing gun, it must be as smaller as possible. I dont know if there are any compact camera that can shoot in raw.
Anyway some suggetions about how to remove the alo?
Thank a lot
 
Nice job, but I don't understand your question.

Does "alo" mean "halo"? If so, could you please indicate on your image where you see this halo -- circle it in red or do something similar, pls, because I don't see anything I would even remotely describe as a serious halo.

At another point in your post, you described the problem as "the sun light reflaction (sic)". Are you referring to the bands of light coming down from the surface?

Pls let us know.

Tom
 
I like the light beams showing through the water, as that is what was there, and not an anomaly caused by the photography. Not a massive fan of the subject matter, but you have done quite a decent job so far.
 
Hi,
thank a lot!
Sorry about my poor written english too.
Oe more exp:
Here the halo that i mentioned, look please the 3 photos:

original_photo_2.jpg

- 1st Photo "original_photo_2", the original one

correct_photo-2_adj_layers.jpg

- 2nd Photo "correct_photo_2_adj_layers"

correct_photo_2_adj_layers_bscatter.jpg

here i apply some adjustment layers as exposure, channel mixer, photo filter and levels
- 3th Photo "correct_photo_2_adj_layers_bscatter"
here i applied the same adjustmment layers as mentioned above than a noise>dust and scratches filter plus the history brush tool to reduce back scattering.

The source of the halo is sun light refraction that come through the water, i'm referring to the bands of light coming down from the surface as you said. It is a nice effect however, once the photo is edited, the sun refraction gradually fade and turns in a very noisy halo, i hope i can make you understand.
The halo is much more noticeable in the 2nd photo, in the 3th photo i was able to remove while removing back scattering with the noise and scratch filter + history brush however the nice efect generate by the bands of light coming down from the surface is fading, disapear.
Hoping i made you understood, any suggestion please how to correct this photo keeping the bands of light coming down from the surface without generating noisy halo?
Thank!
 
Just a note on Photoshop terminology. The bands of light are rays of sunlight. Halos are edges around images/subjects. I agree with sprucemagoo. If you remove them, you will have a very flat background. If you really want to do this, you could clone them out or paint them out. Or you could select each object and I think it would be best to use a pen tool for proper details of the shapes, and place them on a more pleasing background. But I don't understand why you want to do that. These are a natural part of the underwater experience in the photos.

However, if there are small issues like what you are pointing to in the third image (which I can't see even enlarged on my 23 inch monitor) and they continue to bother you, it is probably easiest to use the clone stamp to get them to match the surroundings.
 
Now that i look the photos published in the web i notice that the problem that i refer to as "noisy halo" is there however is still much more noticeable when i watch the photos in my pc in photoshop or windows viewer,
i'm in window 7 service pack 1, 64 bit
nvidia geforce 580
cpu intel I7
20 GB of ram
Thank a lot!
 
Thank,
we post the reply at the same time.
Sorry again about my english and unapropriate photoshop terminology.
Thank again for your answer
 
Lanna, are you talking about areas where the digital noise (ie, like film grain) seems more noticeable / enhanced than in other areas?

Tom
 
Try a really big replace colors brush at 55%tolerance in the area, soft edged-brush select color you want there it will keep the shine of sun rays at the right levels
 
Yes Tom Mann,
i'm talking about areas, point at with red arrow in photos, where digital noise (ie, like film grain) is more noticeable.
In my opinion it get noticeable, it becomes a problem due to the adjustment levels corrections, in the original photo is not a problem at all.
iDad, I give a try to the
replace colors brush, i dont know even what it is, going to watch a tutoeial about and give it a try,
thank a lot to every body.
 
OK. Now I understand what you mean.

Earlier, you said, "... the original photo is a jpeg, my camera is a compact panasonic tz7 ..."

However, you stripped out the EXIF data, so we can't tell anything about your shooting parameters. Either tell us the ISO, the aperture and shutter speed used for the above photos, or post the original JPGs without stripping out the metadata.

Thanks,

Tom

PS - I will be in transit for the next few hours, so I won't be able to respond till later tonight.
 
In fact, now that I think of it, PLEASE post the original of at least one of the photos that is giving you trouble. That's really the only way for us to tell exactly what is going on.

Best regards,

Tom
 
Thanks,
the original is the 1st photo that i upload named "original_photo_2"
About the 2nd photo named "correct_photo-2_adj_layers" i forgot to mention that, before apply adjustment layers, i remove imperfections with stamp clone and hiling brush tool
Thank
 
Hi Lanna - There are no attachments to your last post, and your previous post that contains an attachment named "original_photo_2" is not an original. I can tell because it is not the size that your camera puts out and it is completely stripped of EXIF metadata (ie, information about the hardware, the exposure, etc.). It really does not help much at all to look at that version of the photo.

Sincerely,

Tom
 
Sorry the original is too big, 3960x2232 px, forum dont allow me to upload, it allows a maximum of 3500x3500 px.
So i Upload the original risized in width 3500 px (constrain proportions), the maximum size allowed.
The photo was shooted with a panasonic tz7 in scene mode-under water, all auto, no manual setting.

original_photo_2.jpg

Thank
 
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Hi Lanna - Thank you for posting the last version of that image. It's large enough to see detail (including noise) in the image, and it contains the EXIF information that I needed to understand the problem you are facing.

FYI, even though you camera was set on full automatic mode, it still recorded all the exposure information:

Camera Maker: Panasonic
Camera Model: DMC-TZ7
Image Date: 2010-11-05 22:42:57 +0000
Focal Length: 4.7mm (35mm equivalent: 29mm)
Aperture: f/3.4
Exposure Time: 0.013 s (1/80)
ISO equiv: 80
Exposure Bias: none
Metering Mode: Matrix
Exposure: program (Auto)
White Balance: Auto
Flash Fired: No (enforced)
Orientation: Normal
Color Space: sRGB
GPS Coordinate: undefined, undefined
Software: Adobe Photoshop CS6 (Windows)


I was worried that you or the camera might have increased the ISO to high values to take this shot. If this had happened, that would immediately explain excess digital noise in the shadows. However, the above information tells us that this shot was taken at ISO = 80, a nice low value that will produce about as little grain as your camera is capable of. Under these lighting conditions, your camera (which has very good vibration reduction) selected a very appropriate exposure time: 1/80th of a second. It also selected a very appropriate f-stop: 3.4 (ie, nearly wide open). This is again very appropriate and just about exactly what I would have used if I had the camera set on manual mode.

The next thing I was worried about was that you (or the camera) had inadvertently underexposed the photo, thereby requiring excessive amounts of brightening in post processing. The histogram of this image (see 1st attachment) shows that it is almost perfectly exposed -- the peak is perfectly centered on the x-axis and none of the extreme pixels (ie, very bright or very dark) are beyond the limits of the sensor in your camera.

However, the histogram also tells us that this was originally a very low contrast image. Other images that you have posted show that you prefer a much more contrasty image. I would, too. However, increasing the contrast, as you pointed out, increases the noise and blotchy nature of the image.

Thus, it appears that neither you, nor the camera made any technical mistakes or mis-judged anything.

So, the question is what to do about the digital noise. Like you, I tried processing that image to increase the contrast, but I also applied various noise reduction techniques that you might not have tried. The results were not encouraging (see 2nd and 3rd attachments).

It has been suggested that you have the camera record images in RAW format instead of only JPGs. This is always a good idea, but, to be honest, even if your camera had that capability, in my experience, it wouldn't help all that much.

The real root cause of the noise problem arises because of simple physics: If you compare a full frame DSLR (ie, large sensor, large lens) to a tiny point and shoot (ie, tiny sensor, tiny lens), each pixel on the P&S's sensor is much smaller than the pixels on DSLRs, so, for a given exposure, they receive many fewer photons. Since their arrival is randomly distributed, this means that small P&S cameras are vastly more susceptible to digital noise than their large DSLR cousins.

I understand your preference for a small camera / housing, but I think that if you want to keep the digital noise to an absolute minimum, you need to move to a larger format camera. The best would be a full frame DSLR, but in the past 2 or 3 years, there have been major improvements in digital noise, so even a modern APS-sized DSLR would likely give you all the noise performance that you require.

Sorry I can't be more encouraging.

Regards,

Tom
 

Attachments

  • histogram.jpg
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  • original_photo_2-tjm01_acr-ps02a-02_cropped_to_match-650px_wide.jpg
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  • original_photo_2-tjm01_acr-ps02a-02_600x600-1to1-crop.jpg
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How about carefully selecting the areas that are giving you the problem (perhaps using the refine selection edge using the feather slider) and then running a slight Gaussian blur on the selected area. This should soften out the light rays. You could get rid of them entirely I thing by using more Gaussian blur. Or use the blur tool to manually blur the required area.

Edit: I just read some more of the thread and I think iDads suggestion would give you more control than you would get with the blur tool. I still think the Gaussian blur thing would be worth a try though.
 
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