Jantonio777
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Reduce the bright in the foreground
- Thread starter Jantonio777
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MrToM
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MikeMc
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Tom Mann
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Mike, Tom - LOL!!!!
@OP - On a more serious note, the bright foreground areas are so overexposed that there is almost no information content in them, so one can't simply "darken them".
If one tries to darken them using any of the relatively simple photoshop approaches, all you will wind up with is a horrible uniform gray or tan color in those areas. Instead, one would have to re-create these areas from scratch, or at least try fill them in from other photos of similar areas that weren't so dreadfully overexposed. This would be a lot of work -- certainly too much work for me to do in the present context. Also, as Sam pointed out, the image you posted is too small to allow one to do much with it.
Sorry,
Tom M
@OP - On a more serious note, the bright foreground areas are so overexposed that there is almost no information content in them, so one can't simply "darken them".
If one tries to darken them using any of the relatively simple photoshop approaches, all you will wind up with is a horrible uniform gray or tan color in those areas. Instead, one would have to re-create these areas from scratch, or at least try fill them in from other photos of similar areas that weren't so dreadfully overexposed. This would be a lot of work -- certainly too much work for me to do in the present context. Also, as Sam pointed out, the image you posted is too small to allow one to do much with it.
Sorry,
Tom M
Tom Mann
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Hey, Mike - I really like that. It looks like a pen and ink drawing that has been colored over using watercolors. It isn't a "fix" for his photo, so the OP probably won't like it, but I think it's nice and a heck of a lot more original. I'll be that there are hundreds of very nice photos already on line of that structure, so, IMHO, what's the point of doing yet another, but yours stands out nicely from the herd. LOL.
Tom M
Tom M
Tom Mann
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Pretty much exactly, Larry. 
As u know, when one tries to darken / recover detail from blown highlights, if you use a technique that increases local contrast (eg, large radius USM, Topaz Adjust, Topaz Detail, etc.) one gets lots of semi-false detail with exaggerated contrast like Mike did (but he at least gave it an artistic twist), or, if you try something mindlessly simple like pulling down the white point using curves (or equivalent global techniques like the white slider in ACR/LR), the whole blown area tends to go to one, more-or-less uniform color and/or tonality.
Such limited chances of turning out a decent result on a shot of a tourist destination (Angor Wat) that probably is snapped tens of thousands times per day is why I had so little interest in spending my own time, gratis, on this particular image. In contrast, if it had been a shot that was unique, or had historic or sentimental / family value, I probably would have been more inclined to help the guy out.
T
As u know, when one tries to darken / recover detail from blown highlights, if you use a technique that increases local contrast (eg, large radius USM, Topaz Adjust, Topaz Detail, etc.) one gets lots of semi-false detail with exaggerated contrast like Mike did (but he at least gave it an artistic twist), or, if you try something mindlessly simple like pulling down the white point using curves (or equivalent global techniques like the white slider in ACR/LR), the whole blown area tends to go to one, more-or-less uniform color and/or tonality.
Such limited chances of turning out a decent result on a shot of a tourist destination (Angor Wat) that probably is snapped tens of thousands times per day is why I had so little interest in spending my own time, gratis, on this particular image. In contrast, if it had been a shot that was unique, or had historic or sentimental / family value, I probably would have been more inclined to help the guy out.
T