A technique that I have been holding on to for around 2 years. For several reasons, it is finally time.
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Power Distort Part I.I
This one starts with Broken China. Yes, one of the very first tutorials I wrote. My first or my second - I can't remember.
Going to be using the Zoom Cube as grabitude reference, but in reverse. So, make your own and invert it. Or just build it inverted.
Pick a colour from it and build a new D-Map using that colour. For mine, just a square on a new layer with Preserve Transparency turned on. Going this route so I can easily pick a new colour from the inverted D-Map and quickly fill that square. Save it and give it a whirl.
In my quick test, Biker Chic is actually 256x256. Because of those dimensions, I used 100%/100%. There are times when you will want to use 200%/200%, but it gets really tricky. For now, use a 256x256 target and use 100%/100%.
Hopefully you can see the correlation.
Pick a different colour from the inverted Zoom Cube, update and save the simple D-Map, and Displace again using 100%/100%. You should be able to see the same correlation. Do it again and again. Keep doing it until it clicks. Then do it a few more times.
Please, do this until it makes sense. I can't stress this enough. Even if you understand the graphic, do it anyways.
That's it for now.
Gotta go.
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Power Distort I.II
Next little exercise is almost exactly the same thing. Almost exactly.
Just to keep things a little straight, be using the same colour as above. However, the second D-Map is a little different. Instead of the solid colour square being in the middle, it is a little bit up and to the left.
Notice the two red lines. The first red line goes from the center, or 50% grey, to the sampled colour. The second red line goes from the solid colour in the second D-Map to where it grabs from. Now, both red lines are the exact same length and direction. However, their placement is a little different. In the resulting target, the red line starts from the solid colour and not the center. The second red line is transposed based on where the solid colour is in the second D-Map.
I have no idea if what I just said makes sense. This is one of the reasons why I've held on to this technique for such a long time. I'm finally getting comfortable with my writing skills to attempt, but I'm not sure if it's enough.
Anyways, play with it. Get to know it. This is very important concept to understand.
********
Power Distort Part I.I
This one starts with Broken China. Yes, one of the very first tutorials I wrote. My first or my second - I can't remember.
Going to be using the Zoom Cube as grabitude reference, but in reverse. So, make your own and invert it. Or just build it inverted.
Pick a colour from it and build a new D-Map using that colour. For mine, just a square on a new layer with Preserve Transparency turned on. Going this route so I can easily pick a new colour from the inverted D-Map and quickly fill that square. Save it and give it a whirl.
In my quick test, Biker Chic is actually 256x256. Because of those dimensions, I used 100%/100%. There are times when you will want to use 200%/200%, but it gets really tricky. For now, use a 256x256 target and use 100%/100%.
Hopefully you can see the correlation.
Pick a different colour from the inverted Zoom Cube, update and save the simple D-Map, and Displace again using 100%/100%. You should be able to see the same correlation. Do it again and again. Keep doing it until it clicks. Then do it a few more times.
Please, do this until it makes sense. I can't stress this enough. Even if you understand the graphic, do it anyways.
That's it for now.
Gotta go.
********
Power Distort I.II
Next little exercise is almost exactly the same thing. Almost exactly.
Just to keep things a little straight, be using the same colour as above. However, the second D-Map is a little different. Instead of the solid colour square being in the middle, it is a little bit up and to the left.
Notice the two red lines. The first red line goes from the center, or 50% grey, to the sampled colour. The second red line goes from the solid colour in the second D-Map to where it grabs from. Now, both red lines are the exact same length and direction. However, their placement is a little different. In the resulting target, the red line starts from the solid colour and not the center. The second red line is transposed based on where the solid colour is in the second D-Map.
I have no idea if what I just said makes sense. This is one of the reasons why I've held on to this technique for such a long time. I'm finally getting comfortable with my writing skills to attempt, but I'm not sure if it's enough.
Anyways, play with it. Get to know it. This is very important concept to understand.