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Normalise Colours Across Images


sgt912

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I work in a team of people that deal with road traffic collisions and as part of our work, I use a Riegl VZ400 3D Scanner which has a Nikon D300 permanently attached.
The process is that the scanner performs a 360 degree lidar scan of an area and then it triggers the camera for 5 separate images through a fisheye lens capturing a full 360 degree panorama that is then mapped onto the lidar information to provide a 'real-world' view when the scans are registered and mapped together.
My problem is that the camera comes with pre-determined settings which cater for the more common circumstances - i.e. outdoor with relatively good lighting, but as the camera is controlled by the scanner, we cannot change any settings once the 5 image captures are triggered. The most common problem here is one of lighting - invariably, one of the images is directly into the sun and it regularly occurs that the sun disappears behind cloud or appears from behind them, so the lighting conditions can vary greatly.
The impact of this is that when the five images are mapped onto the lidar data, I end up with a panoramic view around the scanner position that looks like a patchwork.
After all that rambling, as I cannot do anything with the camera settings, I was wondering if there was anything I can do within PS CS5 that would enable me to normalise the lighting settings across the five images.
The added difficulty then, of course is that the project can encompass a minimum of 4 scan positions, each with 5 images and trying to normalise all of them is a daunting prospect, but if there is a way to do, I'm guessing PS should be able to do it.
 
Image/adjustments/shadow/highlights... will allow you to adjust lighting and shadow pretty well depending on how blown out(bright) the image is. I'm working on CS3 though, so there might be a better way in CS5.
 
Interesting problem!

If you could post a set of typical images (without any confidential info) that illustrates the problems you are dealing with, I think it would be very helpful for those of us not familiar with your system.

For example, I would like to use them to determine whether your main problem is with autoexposure in the camera, lens flare when the system is facing into the sun, deep shadows when viewed in one direction vs flat frontal lighting when viewed in the other direction, etc. etc.

Tom M
 
Tom summed it with a visual will help,but if the "problem is that the camera comes with pre-determined settings" I only see fixing the image as an option not camera so determining if setting is the culprit is a waste of time IMO, it most likely is, so retouch needed,if as Tom said there is confidential info, a pm or an email to a member can keep it private.
 
Tony and iDad - thank you for the responses - I'm home for a couple of days - I'll get a set if images posted Tuesday if that's OK - which would be easier for you - to post them as attachments or PM them?

I can edit out registration numbers etc - there's nothing else in them that shouldn't be seen - casualties are removed prior to the scanning process, so it's just vehicles etc...

Many thanks again

Gary
 
looking at those images,(I looked at 3)...I see nothing wrong that the previous solutions won't will not cure. I suggest given those a shot.

What happened to the images that I and others worked on and in this thread?
 
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Other images? These are the first that I've posted on it.

I've tried the Lens correction to remove the vignette - that's not a problem and I can lighten and darken them, but it all seems a bit 'hit and miss' that way - I was hoping there might be a way to have all the images in memory and then for the program to analyse them and try to normalise them for me. I know it's asking for a lot, even for PS, but I'm just trying to save myself some work, considering each individual job could have up to a hundred or so images to try and normalise.
 
It must be another thread out here I am thinking of my bad
 
No problem - I had tried uploading some images and was wondering if I'd managed it but didn't know where they'd ended up!
 
Hi Sgt -

I downloaded your images without problem. Thanks.

I see two potential causes for the patchwork effect that you are experiencing.

a) As you probably already surmised, the exposure is varying wildly between the shots into the sun and the shots pointed away from the sun.

Somewhere along the way, the EXIF info was stripped out, so I couldn't tell the maximum difference in exposure, but I'd guess it is at least 3 stops. That's huge.

I know you said that you can't control the exposure "once the 5 image captures are triggered". However, can you set the exposure mode to manual before the sequence of captures are triggered. By far, this would probably provide you the best immediate improvement. If you don't see a way to do this, I'll bet the mfgr knows how, so I think that a call to them would be very worthwhile.

If there is no way to set the system to manual exposure mode (and, even if there is a way... ;-) ), you will get much better results if you can:
(1) shoot at noon,
(2) use a good lens hood, or
(3) if the sun is going to be in the frame and there you have no way around this, hold something opaque and about the size of an index card about 18" from the camera in such a position that it casts a shadow on the lens when the device swivels towards the sun. There are several such units that are mounted using the camera's hot shoe, e.g., the Flarebuster

To be honest, I wouldn't even consider after-the-fact, post processing solutions until you have exhausted all hardware fixes / options.

b) You said that your system uses a fisheye lens.

Unfortunately, if it's truly a fisheye (ie, not just a super wide angle rectilinear lens), fisheyes are generally known to be very prone to flare. Even worse, they are also known to be very prone to vignetting (ie, producing images that are darker around the edges than in the center). Again, I would talk to the mfgr about this. If you could use a different lens, that would be wonderful, but even if you could simply set the system to take double the number of pictures in one 360 degree scan, that would help enormously with the vignetting.

More later.

Gotta run.

Tom
 
Morning Tom,

Thank you for all of the info - I've had another look at the lens - a Nikkor 14mm f/2.8D which apparently appears to be the ultra wide angle type. As you will see from below it's a 'strange' setup in that the camera is fitted to the top of the scanner at a 90 degree angle to it, but inclined 10 degrees from the horizontal. Once the scanner starts its sweep, there's no way to get at the camera to make any changes, so I guess we'll have to explore more 'global' settings prior to the scan and image capture taking place.
Again, thanks for all the advice and help and I'll let you know how it goes...
prodotti-74858-relbc1c5e58220545e4a93b2c5159cd899f.jpg
 
Hi Sgt -

Thanks for the photo. I had actually done a bit of reading on that scanner and had already seen a photo of it, but nothing where I could tell what lens it used for the camera.

It turns out that I happen to own the Nikon 14/2.8, and it doesn't flare too badly even when pointed directly into the sun, and the vignetting is probably less than 1/2 stop when stopped down beyond f/5.6, so, while something like the Flairbuster will always help, we can pretty much cross the lens off the list as being the main culprit.

So, IMHO, it's back to exposure control and a call to the mfgr. FWIW, my experience is that for less common questions, the local sales rep organization for scientific instruments is not the place to get the best answers. Try to talk to either the local field engineer, or go all the way up to the mfgr itself.

Best regards,

Tom
 

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