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Colorization of a Famous Boxer


ALB Laser,


Take what I have to say with a HUGE grain of salt because (1) I am new to this, (2) I've never tried colorization before, (3) I'm making this up as I go along, and (4) I am new to this. :)


That said, I feel that the color achieved above seems to be rather flat. I don't know what method was utilized (color overlay, gradient, etc.); but I tried using a gradient map to achieve the results below. What I've done can most assuradely benefit from some tweaking.


Perhaps the gradient map settings which I used can give you a good jumping off point to really accomplish something magnificent.


jack10.jpg

2013-01-28_19-08-24.png


Starting from the left:
1. hex color value: #34211b Location: 27%
2. hex color value: #512d1d Location: 45%
3. hex color value: #ad603e Location: 76%
4. hex color value: #ffffff Location: 100%
 
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Thanks. I too am new to colorizations and am struggling along and working on techniques as I go along. I appreciate the tip, I'll give the gradients a shot, had not thought of that. This forum is proving to be a great resource for learning this process.
 
Yes! The teeth are too much (among other things) Here is a re-work hopefully an improvement. Used a gradient to achieve overall color then tweaked the color. Better ?
Jack2.jpg
 
That's a huge improvement over your first one (and better than my lame attempt:))

As a next step, you might want to add either a curves or levels adjustment layer so that you can try to tone down some of those blown out highlights.
 
Yep, my concentration was on getting the skin color and the shading right. As you can see, your suggestion of the gradient worked well but the colors and ended up with were off. I looked up the correct color mix and applied it to those areas via the Color Replacement adjustment.
I also got my Spyder calibration device yesterday and calibrated my screen. Helped.
 
ALB: "...Better ?..."

VASTLY!!!!! Congrats. Now you have the idea.:mrgreen:
------------

rufinatti: "...As a next step, you might want to add either a curves or levels adjustment layer so that you can try to tone down some of those blown out highlights. ..."

Sorry, but that won't work. If a region of an image is truly blown, no amount of tweaking with simple tools like levels or curves is ever going to recover it. The only way to fix the problem is to either "steal" some skin from surrounding areas, or generate some fake skin, ie, set reasonable color and tonality variations in the bad area, then texturize it in some way.

Tom M

PS: "truly blown" usually means the RGB values in the area all exceed, say, 252 (as measured with the eyedropper tool or some other quantitative means). This is not at all the same as thinking that an area is blown simply because it looks that way on an uncalibrated monitor, especially, most laptop monitors.

If an image has been processed in some way, ie, either digitally or with conventional printing techniques so that some area that was pure white has been brought down to a light gray, but one without any variation, that area is effectively can also be considered "completely blown". The highlights in this particular image are almost, but not quite completely blown. With a bit of work, some detail can be extracted from them. However, I would never start using either levels or curves. I would start with either the highlights/shadows adjustment tool, or, even better, if you have it, the "Tonal Contrast" tool in NIK's Color Efx Pro package. In addition, I would also blend a bit of stolen or fake skin to reduce the artifacts introduced by the large expansion in that range of tones by using either the shadow/highlights or Tonal Contrast tools.
 
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Thank you Master, Grasshopper is at your command!
Oh, and by the way Tom, I got my Spyder Pro4 yesterday and calibrated my monitor, it did make a difference in what I was seeing.
 
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