Hi Stella -
Thanks for the info. It clarifies what you are looking for.
I've know that some wedding and engagement photographers use PS actions that produce efx like this, but since you can search those for yourself, I tried to at least get close using nothing but native PS tools.
I started with this shot of our daughter and her cousin taken in the mid-1990's . I used a Nikon F100 loaded with one of the Fuji pro negative films, and got around to scanning the negative back in 2009. I probably used nothing more exotic than my good old Nikon 50 f1.4 stopped down to somewhere around f/2 to f/2.8. The shot was taken in an attic that was painted with white walls and had nothing but the bed in it, so light was bouncing around like crazy, making for nice soft available lighting.
Since I wasn't trying to obtain the desired look in a minimum number of steps, I used a successive approximation approach (ie, separate steps to control contrast, steps to soften the image, use of PS's lens flare filter to simulate overexposure, steps to adjust the tonal balance, steps to add a bit of grain in the shadows, etc. etc.), and came up with this:
To be honest, I'm not wild about it ... especially, my use of PS's lens flare filter to quickly simulate overexposure in one area of the image. I should have done that step manually and simulated overexposure of the sheets in more areas than just the one area that I selected. IMHO, my overall result is not super close to the goal image you posted, but hopefully it at least moved the image in the right direction. For easy comparison, here's the goal image, also reduced to 700px wide.
Someone else may be able to get closer in fewer steps or point you toward one of the commercial PS actions that produce looks like you want (PROVIDING you feed their action with the right starting image).
If we wait a bit and nobody else chimes in, and you are interested in my approach, let me know and I'll write down the exact sequence of all the steps I used, but to be honest, it takes vastly longer to do that than it did to do the actual work, so if I can avoid doing so, that would be nice, LOL.
Also, simply overexposing in the camera and adding an old-fashioned optical diffusion filter in front of the lens would make your starting image much closer to the final result, and save you PS work. Unfortunately, I didn't have an overexposed image in this series to demonstrate the overexposure aspect of this approach.
HTH,
Tom M
PS - Why don't you post some of your results or try your methods on my starting image (so we are all on the same page).