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How do I get this vivid movie-poster look? (before and after pics)


jeeheoncho

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There's a great photographer in Tampa Bay named Russ Robinson who does great work for bands.

He posts a lot of great before and after photos on his site to show off his photoshop prowess and they are stunning! Yes lighting is key and his lighting is done well but the photoshop really brings his photos to the next level. I was wondering what kind of processes techniques could he be using?

For the skin he uses frequency seperation and imagenomics but I was wondeirng what about the rest of the photo. How does he turn them into that vivid movie-poster epic feel? Besides the background, I don't care so much about the background overlays he does. More on the color and pop of the people.

Before and afters from his site tampabayphotos.com :

O7E8eqS.jpg

qeHmAGJ.jpg



W91tZDZ.jpg

JOj9pG3.jpg



N4GumCw.jpg

RWPNblh.jpg
 
Ok we have a thread somewhere with popular effects but this just doesnt quite fit in there so I am going to suggest you google Dave Hill and the many tutorials out there this is more in that category.

Secondly I would also research Calvin Hollywood he does similar work and has many tutorials out there.

thirdly the other popular photographer with this kind of effect would be Jill Greenberg

Jill Greenbergs children section - http://www.jillgreenberg.com/tagged/children and http://www.jillgreenberg.com/tagged/classic
she also has tutorials scattered around

random tutorial

Dave Hill - http://www.davehillphoto.com/#/174179/

random possibly a bit sharper than original dave hill

http://www.calvinhollywood-blog.com/portfolio/

http://www.calvinhollywood-blog.com/trainingtutorials/
 
I certainly don't know all the work of the artists that were cited, but I don't see what I consider classic Dave Hill efx in these images. IMHO, simple burning and dodging will get you most of the way there.

T
 
I certainly don't know all the work of the artists that were cited, but I don't see what I consider classic Dave Hill efx in these images. IMHO, simple burning and dodging will get you most of the way there.

T


Show us Tom please, i have tried and i can't get anywhere close with just what you said mate.
 
If I get a chance, I definitely will. Unfortunately, ever since I got back from my 2 week work trip to California , I've been playing catch-up and have hardly had a chance to do any fun things. But ... if I wake up early tmmrw morning, I'll see what I can do.

T
 
my examples were there as closest to the top image is based of a trend Steve Hill made famous and has now become more known as topaz effect around the forum unofficially.

I am not saying Steve Hill created it but he certainly did make it popular the almost cartoony look, totally smooth lighting as demonstrated in 1 of his images here.
davehillphoto-52423f151500011.jpg

Also highlighted because if you google dave hill effect you will get more results on tutorials based off of it.

very close and possibly closer effect to the 1st image is jill Greenberg also a long time user of this effect made famous for her with the usage of it in crying children and animal portraits

Calvin Hollywood does a lot of work similar to the last image and is a very good starting point

the middle picture really has no famous styles just good composition making.

And yes dodge and burn will get you quite close in 2nd and 3rd image supplied but there is still more to it and I strongly believe if you can learn the effects which the 3 artist I suggested and took techniques from many of the tutorials out there you will be able to produce all 3 of these images yourself with your own pictures if you take them with this kind of production in mind.
 
When I approach a problem like this, the 1st thing I do is simplify it down to it's essentials. Specifically, when looking at the 3rd example pair provided by the OP, I see changes in the skin, changes in the sky/background, and changes in the clothing between the "b4" and "after" versions.

Since the OP said, "I don't care so much about the background overlays he does. More on the color and pop of the people...", the 1st thing I did was to select only the skin and focus my attention on only it. Here is a GIF animation of just the changes in the skin between the before and after images given by the OP.

ps04b_b4-after-for_GIF_pair_prep-sRGB_8bpc-690px_wide-01_skin_changes_only.gif

In my previous post, I claimed that most of the changes to the skin could be accomplished using only dodging and burning, and I would like to demonstrate that.

First, I should point out that I almost always do dodging and burning by a somewhat round-about method. I almost never directly use the native dodge and burn tools on the image. Rather, I paint (with very low opacity) white or black on a 50% gray layer in either "overlay" or "soft light" blend modes. This gives me the ability to make endless non-destructive edits. For example, if I worked directly on a copy of the image and I darkened an area too much with the burn tool, I would then have to use the dodge tool to brighten it back up. Each time you do this, it causes artifacts. On the other hand when doing it the alternate way I just described, no artifacts are introduced. For example, if you accidentally over-darken an area -- you just paint over the area with low opacity white or light gray.

The other dodging/burning technique that I have had great success with is that I always work on a B&W version of the image, never the actual color image. This allows me to fine tune luminosity changes without having to mentally separate out the inevitable undesirable color changes that would occur if I had worked on the full color image. When I get the B&W version (ie, the luminosity) the way I want, then I change the mode of my tweaked B&W image into luminosity layer blending mode and put it above the layer to be modified. This usually comes quite close to the effect I'm looking for.

Here is a GIF animation of the dodging/burning changes I made to a desaturated (B&W) version of the OP's "before" image.

ps04b_b4-after-for_GIF_pair_prep-sRGB_8bpc-690px_wide-02_BW_b4_after_tjm_burn_dodge.gif

Unfortunately, when one is changing the luminosity of an image, whether one does it by the method I just described (working on a B&W version), or does it by working on the color version, there will always be unintended color changes. I use the method I described because I find the unwanted color changes to be smaller than with the all color method. So, my last step is to tweak the color and contrast to be exactly what I want. For this image, I put the following adjustment layers above my replacement luminosity layer: levels, contrast and color photo filter.

The following GIF animation compares the result of my process to the "after" result cited by the OP.

Doing a good job burning and dodging requires a lot of fiddly manual work, even if you are doing only one face. In this case, with 4 faces and other areas of skin showing, I ran out of time / interest after I worked on the faces of the two central subjects, and only did some quick and dirty minor touch up work to the guys on the ends of the lineup.

As you can see by looking at the two guys in the center, one can come very, very close with just dodging and burning, especially if you are a bit sophisticated in the techniques that you use. The results of using automated methods (eg, local contrast enhancement methods including bleach bypass plugins), may be acceptably close in certain cases, but they can never put in detail that *you* want, but simply aren't present in the original, eg, dimples, simulation of changes in the position and flagging of the lights in the studio, etc.

ps04b_b4-after-for_GIF_pair_prep-sRGB_8bpc-690px_wide-03_compare_tjm_tweaks_to_actual_final_vers.gif

HTH,

Tom
 
@Hoogle - I'm sorry, but I just don't see how you can possibly feel that the Dave Hill image that you posted has much in common with any of the "after" images posted by the OP. To see this in a quantitative way, just compare the histograms of each of the OP's "after" images with the Dave Hill image that you posted.

The histograms of all of the images posted by the OP generally exhibit a single broad peak either in the mid brights or the darks whereas the histograms of the Dave Hill image you posted is very flat in the mid tones with peaks on either extreme. To my eyes, and according to the histograms, they look nothing like each other.

T
 
Well I guess that is why photography is classified as art we interpret it different I definately see the 1st image leaning towards it and you don't and as stressed before learning the techniques of all 3 artists I linked to will let you be able to recreate the images to your liking. I have not said it is 100 % dave hill effect because I bet between everyone on here they all have a different idea of what the dave hill effect is and which 1s made him famous, because there are so many tutorials out there that seem to think the dragon effect is dave hill.

Dave hill to me is nicely smoothed skins where no detail is left pretty much evenly lit and almost illustrated yes there is a difference in the original image by op and an actual dave hill image I never claimed them to be exactly the same I merely said it goes more towards that category, mixed with Jill Greenberg

The 3nd image I dont have much to add to that is more composition than effect

and the 3rd image leans toward the work of Calvin hollywood yet again leans towards.

The idea is studying other artists get comfortable with what they are known for and then try and recreate it and modify it to your liking.

And I still stand by what I claim there is a lot of similarities there that if you can learn the mentioned artist techniques then you can easily manipulate them to the images posted in post 1.
 
Tom , I just copied and printed out your B&W dodge and burn tricks....First rate explanation and results!
 
TomM, like you I hardly ever use the native dodge and burn tools. I have used the gray layer technique as well. I like your idea of only using a B&W copy, that I had never tried!

Recently, I have been using a Dodge and Burn technique that involves creating two Curves adjustment layers above the original. One adjusted to the dark side and one adjusted to the lighter side. I then use the Brush Tool (as you described) to add the dodge and burn effect on the adjustment layers masks. What do you think of this method?
 
I think that's a fantastic approach, easily tailored to get exactly the targeting of the effect u need. I remember trying that approach about 5-10 yrs ago, liked it, but for some reason, drifted away from using it. I'll have to give it a try again.

Tnx for sharing it. If u have any thoughts or tips on how best to use it, u shud start a thread abt it.

Warmest regards,

Tom
 

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